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I totally disagree with this. I have used a CD with 100k candela inside and its fine. You have to know what you are doing some but it gets it done. I am sure you could get different lights for different situations but I dont think that 50k candela is overwhelming indoors and it works well to about 200 yards outdoors. What if the indoor threat becomes an outdoor threat. To you tell the bad guy ..."hang on my other rifle has the higher candela - let me get that one please so I can shoot you from a distance while positively id'ing you"? Those rings would never hinder you from a positive ID. Are you going to tell me if there was a man sized criminal that bathroom those rings would camo him somehow or you wouldnt see him quick enough. I cant buy that.

Useless

any idea why the fuse on the harness blows everytime i switch the lights on?

What was it doing that made you decide to change that?

What does that really matter though? In a serious situation you’re not going to notice or care about those rings anyway. If you’re distracted by that, it means you aren’t threat focused.

cool, Thx for sharing

What seem to be the problem because mine does this? Please help can find the problem!

Who's going to focus on rings in a self defensive situation ..

Nice video, im not sure if I would have put anti seize on the lug threads, though..

I really like the protac 2.0 .. 2000 lum.. I just don't like the extra port for the battery charger.

For one.. You could run it on low for CQB and it would work better. But you're missing the whole point of this light: It has 50k candela and works well at shooting a far beam. So depending on what you are using it for, the benefits of the longer range is well worth the bit of artifacts you get in CQB.. Thrid'ly: I agree that the plug isn't great; but all switches break, so I never use them. It works well running it left side- and just use the button on the cap. It's a great light for a rifle.. maybe not so much for a CQB setup.

The Best Video !!!

So was this just content for the sake of content?

High candela is for longer range not for cqb they have other protect versions that will work better for cqb

This man saved my life😢

Thank you I love you handsome brilliant man

Thanks, you made it clear that I can not do this where I live (an apartment complex where they do not want you working on cars). I have rebuilt several big block engines, but there is no way I could quickly slip this in and out in a parking lot. That said, hey, thanks for sharing the basic removal steps with us all. (01 Honda Civic EX vtec 2 dr. Manual) 🙂

You’re not showing nothing but your face😂

Man…watching and hearing the way you work is like looking in a mirror. Always thought I was being too OCD with everything but looks like you validate my workflow! Only thing I’m hesitant on is anti-seize on the wheel lugs, but it’s usually a highly unlikely scenario that they just back out for no reason. But anyways, thank you so much for this well thought out and thorough walkthrough! Didn’t realize the slide pins would be so cheap, so went ahead and got those as well. Thanks again!

❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

So u gonna show how to do it with a screw driver?

Those battery ends are cheap. They don't last very long. Corrosion sets in. If you don't get the ends that need soldering what is the point?

Thanks for the video! A very detailed and clear tutorial. I will be doing the pads and rotors on my 02 4Runner in the next few days and I will be using this video as a guide.

You are a beautiful man

Will the original hl-x tailcap fit the pro?

Any chance you can get a fuckin air horn while doing this fucked video

Great video Sir 👍 do you have a video that show how best to run exterior wires up to a roof rack for mounted offroad lights ?

I think the feeler gauge might scratch your inner tube.

I watched your vodeo for doing a tining belt on a 2001 Honda Civic, & YOU SAID Turn the EngineCLOCKWISE, Because it is an Interference Engine, & you do Not wat the Piston to Hit the Vlves & THAT IS WRONG, THAT IS WRONG, The PROPER Direction is Turn the Engine COUNTER CLOCK WISE,( CCW) COUNTER CLOCK WISE. ....ANOTHER YOU TUBE DUMMY THAT THINKS HE KNOWS WHAT HE IS DOING... BE WARNED

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your doing it wrong u place the feeler gauge down first then the straight edge on top and check for drag

My Coleman CT200-U (FVRITO Performance VM22 26mm Carburetor). Did the same thing thru me of the back, while riding) Because i am not smart. I started it 2 times more with it going full throttle and launching into the air. I have replaced my carburetor. Seems to work. Mine is not a toy

Did you contact Streamlight about the "rings" or the tailcap issues? This could be a one-off problem.

15 minutes of complaining about the "rings". I promise you, in an actual use scenerio, you’ll never notice those "rings". The loose plug is an issue and probably something that Streamlight will address. Their CS is fantastic so I'm not worried. If you dont run preasure pads, it's a non-issue.

This is my first time doing rear brakes btw so you saved me hours of head scratching trying to figure it out ❤😊

Omg thank you ! You saved my ass I already had my tire and old brake pads off when I realized the caliper cant compress with c clamp 😅

I just received mine today and it's going back to Amazon. It wouldn't even turn on unless I loosened the Battery cap. Also The pressure Switch didn't work at all. So disappointing! I will definitely look for those Rings when I shop around for the next one.

That intro is really cutting it close & similar to that dude in blues intro…

thanks really helpful

Oh wow you have some imperfections with a 130.00 wml. These lights are not made for the operator doing cqb 8 hours a day. Its for the homeowner when he hears so.ething go bump in the night.

1:49 just started watching, but I feel like there is no reason to be running 50k candela when you are indoors. Wouldn’t you be running the lower power indoor in a dark house?

You don't really want that metal wristwatch exposed like that.

Thanks a million

Hi there, a long time since anyone commented but I thought I'd give it a go. Good video, a lot of background noise louder than your commentary & I would like to add some information you might find useful? Do not use Copper or any other metal based ‘anti-seize’ compounds on the edges (sides) of the brake pads - this will actually cause problems later when the pads start sticking in place. Anti-seize compounds are NOT lubricants. They are for assembly use (i.e. Nuts & bolts/fasteners) so they can more easily be undone again when required. The metal based compounds will actually promote corrosion (due to electrolytic action) and will eventually form a sticky paste that will harden & stop the pads moving. Hence scored & worn disks. It is OK on the pad rears/piston as it helps reduce brake squeal, however, Most pads now have an anti squeal 'shim' stuck to the back of them to do this instead but you can still 'butter' them if you want. I would recommend trying a ceramic (non-metal) based grease to lubricate the edges of the pads & Caliper runners. That should help keep your brakes in good working order. You can get them off Amazon/ebay/Halfords etc.

Thanks for this information

So, can you correlate these rings to an actual issue under use? I mean make it (your argument) make sense. Please.

Anyone looking for a weapon mounted light needs to understand the difference between candela and lumens. A large candela will work better for long distance, if clearing a house, a high candela number is not the best option, even if the lumen amount is the same for both lights.

I dont plan on using a pressure switch

For a weapon light... the hlx pro or the tk20 and why?

It worked! 😃 I have a 2000 Toyota 4Runner, the fan motor was working fine but I could hear a ticking sound every time I turned the fan on. So I took it apart just as you showed and I found a little piece of dry rotted weather stripping that had fallen into the fan cage so I removed it and put everything back together and it worked like a champ minus the annoying sound - Yay! Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. 🤗